Duration: 52 Day

Height: 26,795 feet (8,167 meters)
Location: Pokhara, Nepal, Asia

Dhaulaghiri was climbed first in 1960 by an international team under the leadership of Max Eiselin, Lucerne. Since I happen to know some of the team members personally, my description concentrates mainly on this ascent. But in this Overview chapter, I try to inform about the present situation.

Dhavali giri is Sanskrit and means white mountain. It is located in the west central part of Nepal. On the altitude scale it is number 7 and it is almost the last 8000er to be conquered. The way of the first ascent is the normal route of today. There are however two main possibilities to reach the base camp. Both ways start from south at the small town of Beni (860 m) which can by reached by bus from Pokhara and Kathmandu.

The eastern valley is called Kali Gandaki and was chosen by the French expedition in 1950. Today there is even an airport at Jomosom (2700 m) in this valley. On the west side of this valley is Dhaulagiri, on the east side is Annapurna. The alternative route is the Mayanghdi valley, which was discovered by a Swiss expedition one year later. Today there are commercial trekking tours that climb on one side, reach the base camp and come back through the opposite valley. But there also organized tours that try to reach the summit. Here is a brief description of such a tour that lasts ca. 45 days and costs around $ 7000, including the flight to Nepal and the fee to the summit.

Reckon with a 10 days climb from Beni through Mayanghdi Khola to the BC on the north side at 4650 m. Food and lodging in tents are provided by the organizer. Porters are included in the price. The participants will spend 30 days at and above the base camp. Food will be supplied at the BC, but the ascent of the NE-spur is left to the team member, without guides and at their own risk. 2-men tents are provided, but must be carried and to four sites on the spur and are erected by the members. Some fixed ropes are already there or will be installed by the organization. Artificial oxygen is proved at the BC in case of emergency.

The route between the last camp and the summit does not follow the spur and the French ridge, as in 1960, but follows the ice field that heads directly to the summit and was abandoned by the first ascent because of too much snow. The way back to Beni may lead over the French-Col and ambush Pass (Thapa Pass). Then follow the Kali Gandaki to the village of Tuktsche (2600 m). Some organizations walk back to Beni, others reach the airport at Jomosom (2700 m).

Itinerary

Dhaulagiri Expedition (8167m.) Spring 2009 - 2010 - 2011
Days	Date	Itinerary
Day 01	31 Mar	Arrive in Kathmandu transfer to Hotel.Overnight in Hotel.
Day 02	01 Apr	Sightseeing in Kathmandu.Overnight in Hotel.
Day 03	02 Apr	Drive to Tilpang.Camp . Overnight in Camp.
Day 04	03 Apr	Tatopani.(1190m.) Overnight in Camp.
Day 05	04 Apr	Ghasa.(2013m.) Overnight in Camp.
Day 06	05 Apr	Tukche(3200m.). Overnight in Camp
Day 07	06 Apr	Yak Kharka.(4500m.) Overnight in Camp.
Day 08	07 Apr	Hidden Valley.(5334m.) Overnight in Camp.
Day 09	08 Apr	Dhaulagiri B.C.(5000m.) Overnight in Camp.
Day 10-45	09 Apr- 15 May	Climbing period.
Day 46	16 May	Cleaning up B.C. and back to Hidden Valley. Overnight in Camp.
Day 47	17 May	Yak Kharka. Overnight in Camp.
Day 48	18 May	Jomsom. Overnight in Camp.
Day 49	19 May	Flight to Pokhara. Overnight in Camp.
Day 50	20 May	Flight or Drive to Kathmandu. Overnight in Hotel.
Day 51	21 May	Shoppig Day in Kathmadu and Neali Culture show with dinner in the evening.
Day 52	22 May	Departure from Kathmandu.

Dhaulagiri Expedition (8167m.) Autumn 2009 - 2010 - 2011
Days	Date	Itinerary
Day 01	25 Aug	Arrive in Kathmandu transfer to Hotel.Overnight in Hotel.
Day 02	26 Aug	Sightseeing in Kathmandu.Overnight in Hotel.
Day 03	27 Aug	Drive to Tilpang.Camp . Overnight in Camp.
Day 04	28 Aug	Tatopani.(1190m.) Overnight in Camp.
Day 05	29 Aug	Ghasa.(2013m.)Overnight in Camp.
Day 06	30 Aug	Tukche(3200m.).Overnight in Camp
Day 07	31 Aug	Yak Kharka.(4500m.)Overnight in Camp.
Day 08	01 Sep	Hidden Valley.(5334m.)Overnight in Camp.
Day 09	02 Sep	Dhaulagiri B.C.(5000m.) Overnight in Camp.
Day 10-45	03 Sep - 08 Oct	Climbing period.
Day 46	09 Oct	Cleaning up B.C. and back to Hidden Valley.Overnight in Camp.
Day 47	10 Oct	Yak Kharka.Overnight in Camp.
Day 48	11 Oct	Jomsom.Overnight in Camp.
Day 49	12 Oct	Flight to Pokhara. Overnight in Camp.
Day 50	13 Oct	Flight or Drive to Kathmandu. Overnight in Hotel.
Day 51	14 Oct	Shoppig Day in Kathmadu and Nepali  Culture show with dinner in the evening.
Day 52	15 Oct	Departure from Kathmandu.

The Dhaulagiri  Expedition package cost are including following services:-

1. 5 Nights accommodation in Kathmandu with bed & Breakfast (3 star).
2. Permit fee of Dhaulagiri Expedition
3. Food for Trekking and Expedition period
4. Staff: Base camp Guide, Cook, Cook helper
5. Porters or Yak porter Lukla to Base camp & Base camp to Lukla
6. Kathmandu -Pokhara-Beni- Kathmandu Land Transportation
7. Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer, expedition crew
8. Insurance for Nepalese expedition crew.
9. 1 tent for 1 person for Expedition north face brand
10. Mat, dining tent, Toilet tent, Mess tent, Store tent, Table and chairs trekking for the expedition
11. Local transportation in Kathmandu (Airport-hotel-airport)
12. Emergency Oxygen -Mask and regulator
13. Satellite phone (Pay calls)
14. Fare Well dinner

The Dhaulagiri Expedition package cost are not including following services:-

1. Personal equipment for climbing & trekking
2. Personal & medical Insurance of expedition
3. Climbing food, Gas & stove above Base camp
4. Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
5. Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter incase needed
6. Walki Takie permit & Satellite phone permit
7. Oxygen & Mask -regulator
8. Personal expenses
9. Bar Bills & beverage
10. Garbage Deposit USD 3000.00 (Sharing of the total person) and Deposit fee will be not refunded if the clients (climber) don't take back their garbage.

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