Makalu Expedition

Makalu is the world’s fifth highest peak. Its height is 27,765 feet from the sea level. This beautiful mountain lies in the 14 miles east of Everest in the Khumbu region. The size of this splendid mountain is gorgeous and its pyramid-like structure with sharp four ridges has made it more spectacular. This peak is indeed a double peak. The subsidiary peak stands just north of the main summit which is linked by a saddle named Chomolonzo. The ridge of the summit has drawn the demarcation line indicating the boarder between Nepal and Tibet.

The name of this mountain is probably taken from a Sanskrit word Maha-kala which means a Shiva, one of the god of Hindu religion. Shiva is some times an evil, cruel destroyer and other times he is apt to be gentle and kind hearted. This mountain is also called Kumba Karna in a local dialect. It means the giant in fact.

Before its first ascent in 1955, several expedition teams studied and admired this peak. Nevertheless, it was not attempted until the first ascend of Mt. Everest in 1954. Other giant peaks in the Khumbu region were also not attempted till that time.

Makalu West Face

For climbing, this route is said to be very dangerous and risky. Five attempts were made before the successful climbing of this mountain. In fact, they succeed in the 5th attempt.

The Russian team led by Sergey Efimov climbed this summit successful first time in 1997. They climbed it through west face. They had climbed this peak through the most difficult route. The ending part of the route goes towards Parago ridge. Alexei Bolotov, Yuri Ermachek, Dmitri Pavlenko, Igor Bugachevski and Nikolai Jiline climbed Mt. Makalu and thus they were rewarded by the award “Gold ice axe.”

The routes are of 4 parts:

From the base camp of the west face, the buttom part starts and then we continue the climbing through the hanging ice fall at the height of 6100m to the right side of the ice fall. The second part broadens from the plateau above the ice fall along the 35 to 45 elevation. The next section consists of ice rock walls in the 50 to 55 degree steep and that extends in the height of 7400m’ height. The final section begins with the 70 to 75 degree elevation rock pillar. The pillar leads the west ridge at the height of 8000m and up to the top of the summit.

We fix the typical ropes from 5800m to 6100m and from 6500m to 7500m. You see the camp established by the Russian expedition in the following location.

The French Route on the West Pillar is an aesthetically stunning line that has been seldom attempted. It is an exceedingly difficult, a very steep pillar that was first successfully ascended in 1971. The crux of the line comes at approximately 7,600m in the area of the Seignior Wall.

The first US team to summit was in 1980, they summit via this West Pillar Route . The team was made up of Jim States , John Roskelley, Kim Momb and Chris Kopczynski. They summit 2 members of the team and put 2 members within 150 feet. They summit without the use of oxygen or Sherpa support.

Highlight sights of Makalu Expedition:

Everest 8848m, Lhotse 8516m, Makalu I 8463m, Makalu II 7660m, Peak 38- 7591m, Pumori, Lhotse Shar 8410m, Barunste 7145m, Chamlan 7319m, Kanchanjung 8586m, Jannu Himal 7710m & More attractive snow caped peaks etc.

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